Photographing Your Artwork for Submissions

The quality of your submission photos directly impacts how galleries perceive your work. A great photograph can elevate your art, while poor lighting and framing can work against you. Here's how to capture professional-looking images of your work at home.

Lighting Setup

Proper lighting is the foundation of good artwork photography. You have two main options:

Natural Daylight (Recommended for Most Work):

Shoot near a window on an overcast day (soft, diffused light)
Avoid direct sunlight, which creates harsh shadows and blown-out highlights
Shoot in the morning or late afternoon when light is gentler
Position yourself so light comes from the side, not directly into the camera
Close blinds slightly if sunlight is too intense

Studio Lighting (Better for Consistent Control):

Use two soft lights (or LED panels) positioned at 45-degree angles on either side of the artwork
The 45-degree angle creates gentle highlights while reducing glare
Keep lights at equal distance from the work so lighting is even
Never position lights directly in front of or behind the work
Consider using a light diffuser to soften harsh shadows

Key principle: You want to reveal texture and dimension, not create glare or wash out color.

Camera Setup & Positioning

What You Need:

A camera (DSLR, mirrorless, or smartphone with a good camera)
A tripod (essential for stability and straight angles)
A remote shutter trigger or use the timer function (avoids camera shake)

How to Position Yourself:

Mount your camera on the tripod at eye level with the artwork
Position the camera parallel to the work (not at an angle)
For 2D work (paintings, prints), the camera lens should be perpendicular to the surface
For 3D work (sculpture, ceramics), step back and frame the entire piece with some negative space
Use the tripod's level indicator to ensure the camera is straight
Set a 3–5 second timer to eliminate camera shake

Background & Environment

Keep it Simple:

Use a neutral, clean background (white, grey, or black cloth, or a blank wall)
Remove clutter, shadows, and visual distractions
The background should recede and not compete with your art
For 3D work, a simple backdrop or corner works well

Pro Setup:

Hang a white or grey backdrop cloth behind the work (prevents shadows on the background)
Tape or pin it securely so it's flat and wrinkle-free
If shooting outdoors, use a clean wall or stand the work against a natural feature

Color Accuracy & White Balance

Getting true color is critical. Galleries need to see your work as it actually looks.

Before You Shoot:

Set your camera's white balance (don't rely on automatic)
- For natural light: select "Daylight" or "Cloudy" preset
- For studio lights: select the matching preset (5500K for most LEDs)
- Or manually set white balance by photographing a white reference card
Use color reference cards (optional but helpful):
- Place a grey card or white balance reference card in one test shot
- This gives you a reference point for color grading later

When Exporting:

Export in sRGB color space (the standard for web)
If your camera captures in Adobe RGB, convert to sRGB
Avoid over-saturating or adjusting color in post-processing to match what you see in person

Check your results on another device before submitting. The colors should match what you see with the naked eye, not enhanced or altered.

Capturing Detail Shots

Beyond the full artwork, consider including close-up photos:

Texture details (brushwork, fabric weave, carved elements)
Signature or maker's mark
Material or craftsmanship that won't be obvious in a full shot
Color transitions or intricate patterns

Detail shots help galleries understand your technique and skill level.

File Naming Convention

Use consistent, descriptive file names:

Lastname_Title_Year.jpg
Example: Chen_Emergence_2025.jpg

This makes it easy for you to organize and identify images, and it's professional when galleries or jurors work with your files.

Photography with a Smartphone

If you don't have a DSLR or mirrorless camera, a modern smartphone works surprisingly well:

Do's:

Use a smartphone holder or makeshift tripod (propped books work in a pinch)
Clean the lens before shooting
Use a timer to avoid camera shake
Shoot in natural light if possible
Take multiple shots and select the best one

Don'ts:

Don't use flash (creates glare and harsh shadows)
Don't hold the phone by hand (causes blur)
Don't zoom. Step closer physically instead
Don't use filters or heavy post-processing that alter colors

Smartphone Setting Tips:

Tap to focus on the artwork (not the background)
Use "Portrait Mode" only for 3D work, not 2D (it creates artificial depth)
Adjust exposure by swiping up or down if the photo is too bright or dark

Step-by-Step Process

Set up your lighting (natural or studio)
Mount camera on tripod, position parallel to artwork
Set white balance for your light source
Take test shots and review on a monitor (not just the camera screen)
Adjust lighting, camera position, or background as needed
Take multiple shots (at least 5–10) from the same setup
Review all shots on your computer, not on the camera
Select the sharpest, best-lit image
Crop if needed (keeping artwork centered)
Export in sRGB at 2000–3000px on the long edge

Final Checklist Before Submitting

Artwork is clearly in focus
Colors are accurate and match the real work
Lighting is even with no harsh shadows on the artwork
Background is clean and undistracting
Camera is straight (not tilted)
Image is bright enough (not dark or underexposed)
File size is under 50 MB
Format is JPG, JPEG, PNG, WebP, HEIC or HEIF

You do not need to write alt text

Crafted Call generates a short screen-reader description for every artwork image, so you are never asked to write one. What you can do is give the image something to describe: a clear, well-lit, uncropped photograph produces a better description than a dim one shot at an angle.